Thursday, May 24, 2012

Homemade Moisturizer with Cocoa Butter & Shea

Just got done making a lovely homemade moisturizer! My husband and I are expecting our first child, and I wanted to make a moisturizer I can use daily to help prevent stretchmarks. Okay, I must admit I tried making homemade body cream last winter (without researching anything) and it failed miserably! If I had done my research, I would have known that all lotions need an emulsifier (to bond the water with the oils) and stearic acid (to thicken the cream). So my first attempt was not pretty.

Several homemade moisturizers call for beeswax because it's a natural emulsifier, but I just ordered emulsifying wax and stearic acid from wholesalesuppliesplus.com, which is where I order my soap making supplies. It was much cheaper than beeswax.

A moisturizer that is less than 50% water is considered a body cream. I used this ratio:

Water - 55%
Oils - 38%
Emulsifying Wax - 4%
Stearic Acid - 3%
I believe that adds up to 100%...

I didn't worry too much about making the measurements perfect. Here's the recipe I used.

  • Just over two cups of water
  • 1.5 cups combined oils, consisting of mostly cocoa butter, a scoop of shea butter, and a splash of sweet almond oil (see, not very scientific!)
  • ~3 Tbs. stearic acid
  • ~4 Tbs. emulsifying wax


Keep in mind this recipe makes close to 40 ounces of moisturizer.

Melt all the oils in a pan on low heat, stirring continuously.


Place water in a blender. Once the oils are melted, add them to your water and blend on low for several minutes. Add a few drops of essential oil or fragrance oil if you desire. Quick note: Essential oil is natural, fragrance oil is synthetic.



It takes about an hour before it becomes a creamy consistency. As it cools, it thickens.

If you won't be able to use it up within three months, store it in the refrigerator. One final note, I'm always curious about the cost of homemade versus store-bought. Homemade doesn't always come out cheaper but sometimes it does. I compared my cost per ounce to that of Suave Cocoa Butter with Shea Lotion.

Homemade Cocoa Butter with Shea - 15.2 cents per ounce
Suave Cocoa Butter with Shea Lotion - 16.6 cents per ounce

Am I saving tons? Nope. But there's something satisfying about knowing every ingredient in my lotions and soaps.

Garden Mulch: A Lifesaver!

My garden is in full swing, and I'm going to have my hands full this summer with food preservation! Although it will be much work, I'm looking forward to harvesting and canning/freezing/dehydrating the bounty! We had a fabulous Spring, but now we are entering a bit of a drought, so we're having to water our gardens in southern Illinois. I recently heard an interview on the radio with a University of Missouri Extension Master Gardener. He said it is better to water your garden early in the morning rather than in the evening. The reason for this is so water doesn't hang on your foliage all night, which can increase the likelihood for disease. If you water in the morning, the sun will dry the leaves, which makes for a happier plant. Good to know!

I am always trying to learn new things to become a better gardener. Last year I began mulching my garden with newspaper and straw. I was hesitant to put newpaper in my garden, but boy, was it a time saver when it came to watering and weed pulling! I will ALWAYS mulch my garden from now on. Here are some of the benefits:

1.) Newspaper and straw/leaves/grass clippings help hold moisture in the soil, so less watering is needed.
2.) When the mulch breaks down, it helps contribute to a nutrient rich, organic soil. Do it year after year and watch your soil change!
3.) No weed pulling or spraying! The newspaper keeps sunlight from getting through for those pesky weeds.

So, this is my commercial for mulching. It takes a little work, yes. But I will gladly take one day of work over many days of chopping weeds and watering. Plus, I'm improving my soil!


Here is a photo of a mulched tomato plant from my garden. Simply place a layer of newspaper or magazine pages on the ground, then cover with straw, leaves and/or grass clippings. No tilling, no weeding, no spraying, less watering!

Friday, April 27, 2012

Nice Lathery Soap Recipe

Finally! A soap recipe that has a nice, stable lather in the shower. All of my previous batches didn't lather quite as well, but they were still nice. I'm a big fan of using tallow as my base fat for all my soaps. It's free and just requires a little work to render.

You will need:
Pot for melting fats & oils
Stainless pot for mixing soap
Mason jar for lye water
Spatula
Thermometer
Kitchen scale
Mixer
Soap Mold
Note: You will not be able to use your kitchen items after you use them for soap making.

Fats & Oils (oz wt)
28 oz tallow
3 oz olive oil
3 oz coconut oil
2 oz sweet almont oil
2 oz shea butter
3 oz cocoa butter

2 oz grapeseed oil (added at trace)

Lye Water
5.2 oz wt lye (sodium hydroxide)
10 - 15 fl oz water or other liquid

Combine fats & oils until all fats are melted. Meanwhile, pour the water or liquid in a mason jar. ALWAYS ADD THE LYE TO THE LIQUID. Adding liquid to lye will cause an explosion. Preferably, mix your lye water in the garage or a well ventilated area.

Let your fats & oils mixture cool to about 100 degrees F. Do the same with the lye water. Don't let your lye water cool to less than 100 degrees. I've heard that some people never monitor the temperatures, but I have always monitored the temperatures. I have found that if you try to mix your soap with extremely hot liquid, it will take a long time before it comes to trace.

While you are waiting for them to cool, prepare your soap molds. I have a wooden soap mold, but you could use a shoebox lined with parchment paper.

Time to mix! Combine the fats, oils & lye water in a stainless steel container and mix with a hand mixer. You could do it by hand, but you will be mixing for a LONG time. You will notice a change right away, but you will probably need to stir for at least 15 minutes.

Once the mixture starts to look like pudding, that's known as the trace stage. You have to work quickly once it reaches trace. Now you can add essential oils, fragrance oils, and other delicate oils. I added some grapeseed oil at trace, because I didn't want to lose it's properties once it mixed with the lye. I also added some apple fragrance oil.

Pour your soap into a mold and smooth it with a spatula. You will be able to cut it the next day, but you will need to wait a week before you use it. Enjoy!

Monday, April 16, 2012

Spring Farming Photos

Spring is in full swing! Here are a few photos from this Spring.


This is Scott, my husband, with the anhydrous applicator.


Changing anhydrous tanks.


A close-up shot of a corn seed.


My brother-in-law, Brad planting corn.





Monday, April 9, 2012

Rendering Tallow for Soap Making

Greetings, friends! A few weeks ago I made two batches of cold-process body and hand soap. I wouldn't consider myself a hard-core soap maker, but I do enjoy using my own homemade soaps for my family. The bars lather and condition very well, and I feel good knowing that I know every ingredient that went into the soap. Just two years ago, I thought I would never be interested in making soap, but a good friend introduced me to it and I'm hooked! Not only am I saving money, but I have a wonderful new hobby! Are my bars beautful? NO! But do they clean? YES! That's really all I need.

Have you been toying around with the idea of making cold-process soap? If so, I am happy to share my experiences as a new soap maker with you.

There are two main ingredients of cold-process soap:  Lye and fat. Soap is born when the fatty acids mix with lye, or sodium hydroxide. You may have heard the saying "you can't have soap without lye". That is absolutely true! If you look at the ingredients on a Dove Beauty Bar label, you probably won't see the word "Lye" on the ingredient list, but you will see Sodium Tallowate. Simply put, this is a combination of tallow (fat from cattle or sheep) and lye.

First thing's first. Let's talk fat! I mentioned above that you need lye and fat to make soap. So what are our choices? You could use lard, tallow, palm oil, or even olive oil! Keep in mind that oils are fats too. The type and combination of fats and oils you use in your soap will impact the hardness and quality of your bar. For those of you who are looking to make an animal product-free soap, you may want to look into some of the vegetable-based fats. For me, I like to use whatever is cheapest and easy to acquire.

Tallow makes an excellent fat base (and this is what my friend used when she introduced me to soap making). Tallow makes a nice, hard, white bar of soap. Tallow is just the suet, or hard fat around the kidneys and loins in cattle and sheep. Yes, you could just use any old animal fat, but tallow is the best for rendering!

What is rendering? It's just melting the fat and straining out all of the "junk" that we don't want in our soap. I called a nearby butcher shop and asked them if they had any tallow available. They gave me a wonderful piece of suet from around the kidneys of a steer - for free! I have heard of butcher shops charging a price for tallow, but it never hurts to ask. Here is a photo of what it looks like.


Tallow is really hard and easy to chop. Since we're going to melt it down, it will save you tons of time if you just chop it up. Chop it in big chunks and run it through the food processor, or just chop it up with a knife. The smaller the better. Here is what mine looked like after it was chopped.


I was able to render (melt) the tallow outdoors, but I realize not everyone can do this. Tallow does have a certain smell, although it's not too offensive. If you do it indoors, just turn on your ventilation and open your windows. Place a small amount in the bottom of a large pot and slowly begin melting on a low heat. Once you have some melted in the bottom, add the rest and continue stirring. It's really important to get that small amount going, because if you place too much in the pot, it could scorch.


Here is what it looks like while it's melting, or rendering. At some point, you'll notice that there are still small chunks floating, but they don't seem to melt. In fact, they look like small pieces of fried fat. Ever heard of cracklins?? Some people salt and eat these, but I couldn't bring myself to do it. Now, the dangerous part! You'll need a colander, an old t-shirt or cloth that you're willing to sacrifice, and another large pot. Place the cloth or t-shirt in your colander, place the colander over your other large pot. Carefully pour the hot, melted fat into your colander and let it strain into the new pot.


It should look yellow and clean. When it cools, it will turn white again, like it's original form. Now we're ready to store it! Remember, tallow is an animal fat and it will spoil if not stored correctly. Here are your options:  1) Freeze it in a plastic tub. 2) Preserve it in canning jars. You could also refigerate it, but it should be used within a couple months, in my opinion. I don't have enough freezer space, so I chose option 2 - preserve it in canning jars. I really like this method because it doesn't take up space in my freezer or fridge. One jar holds about 28 oz weight of tallow, which is the perfect amount for a batch of soap.

First, heat your canning jars. If you pour hot liquid into a cold jar, there will be an explosion and you could be injured. Heat those jars as much as possible! Either run them through the heat cycle on your dishwasher, or let them soap in scalding hot water. Place the heated jars on a towel. A cold countertop and a hot jar of fat could be a bad combination. Use a funnel and carefully fill your canning jars with the rendered fat. Leave about an inch of headspace. Use only new lids, because you will need a seal to preserve your tallow. Place your lids and rings, and you're done! The hope is that the heat from the oil will cause a seal. You will not need to process the jars like you would if you were canning food. After all, we are not eating this tallow, so it doesn't need to be processed to a certain temperature. The only thing we're after is a seal from the heat.


Any jars that don't seal will need to be used relatively quickly. If you have a jar or two that fail to seal, just place them in the refrigerator and use them first. I rendered this tallow during the Winter of 2011, and my jars are still fresh to date - Spring 2012.


When it cools it will be white and ready to use! Sounds like a lot of work? It really isn't bad. Remember, you don't have to render your own tallow to make soap. There are plenty of store-bought options available, but I wanted something cheap. The idea is to keep cost low as possible to save money for my family. That's all for now! More on the economics of soap-making next time!